Poucas marcas espanholas são tão icônicas como Delpozo. Fundado na década de 70 pelo estilista madrilenho Jesús del Pozo, em 2012, o Grupo Perfumes y Diseño assumiu o controle após a morte de seu fundador e a entregou no que diz respeito à direção criativa. , ao costureiro catalão Josep Font, que esteve a cargo até 2018.

Jesús del Pozo foi, segundo o ex-ministro da Cultura, Ángeles González Sinde, o homem que "ensinou a todos que a moda também é uma indústria". Firme defensor do design conceitual, ele começou, como outros colegas como Adolfo Domínguez ou Antonio Miró, projetando para homens. Não demorou muito para ela se lançar no design feminino e assim abraçar as mulheres independentes e progressistas - a cantora Ana Belén foi sua grande musa - com peças escultóricas. Estas palavras podem servir para compreender a forma particular de compreender a moda madrilena: "Evito os enfeites, prefiro tudo o que é directo e simples, os sentimentos atraem-me. Procuro o essencial. A minha relação com as pessoas e com os meus amigos tem que veja com as roupas que eu faço. São relações muito diretas, muito claras, não há duplo sentido. Pode haver muita sutileza, mas nada sobreposto deliberadamente ”.

Firme defensor da industrialização do setor, com o lançamento de seu primeiro perfume, Duende, abriu novos caminhos de negócios e inaugurou uma nova era de ouro para a economia da empresa. Pessoalmente, Jesús del Pozo tornou-se o primeiro estilista a receber a Medalha de Ouro pelo Mérito em Belas Artes, em 1998. Também ganhou o Prêmio Nacional Cristóbal Balenciaga em 1989 e a Agulha de Ouro em 1981 Como se não bastasse, foi um dos promotores da ACME -Spanish Fashion Creators Association- e exerceu a presidência dessa associação até 2004. Após sua morte em 2011, vítima de enfisema pulmonar, o Grupo Perfumes y Diseño comprou o marca, reformulou suas diretrizes e nomeou outro talento da moda espanhola, Josep Font, como designer principal.

Assim se produziu a primeira sucessão de uma grife de moda na Espanha, algo, por outro lado, comum em cenas como a de Paris ou Londres. Nascido em Santa Perpetua de la Moguda, uma pequena cidade perto de Barcelona, ​​Font estudou Arquitetura na Universidade Politécnica de Barcelona, ​​um trabalho que ele combinou com seus estudos de modelagem. Logo ela foi incentivada a lançar sua própria marca, com vários prêmios L'Oréal de melhor coleção na Passarela de Cibeles e desfilando na Paris Fashion Week.

Na nova era, a marca, rebatizada de Delpozo -shortly-, desenvolveu uma estratégia de internacionalização clara. O segundo desfile da era Font aconteceu às margens do rio Hudson durante a New York Fashion Week e foi patrocinado por ícones como Olivia Palermo e Lauren Santo Domingo. Com seguidores novos e proeminentes, seus looks povoaram festivais, estreias e até o Met Gala anual, com aquele minivestido usado pela atriz Kate Mara.

“Jesus e eu compartilhamos valores, talvez além da estética. A partir daqui, podemos olhar para trás ou para frente e optamos por evoluir. Fomos todos claros porque o objetivo principal deste projeto é ser mais jovem e internacional ”, declarou o designer catalão a respeito do seu trabalho. E acrescentou: "A mulher Delpozo é como arte; ela não tem idade nem um físico específico. É mais uma questão de atitude."

Em 2018, Josep Font deixa a direção criativa da marca. Ele deixa para trás um legado de sucesso como um porta-estandarte de "prêt-à-couture" e uma marca, Delpozo, rejuvenescida. Pouco depois, é anunciado o seu sucessor: o designer Lutz Huelle torna-se o novo diretor criativo da empresa espanhola. De origem alemã, ele criou sua própria marca em 2002.

Perfumes for Men

Perfumes for Men: The 4 Olfactory Families of Men's Perfumery Among the most important olfactory families that make up men's perfumery, we highlight the woody family, the aromatic family, the oriental family, and the citrus family. Each is divided into subfamilies, allowing for numerous combinations of aromas. In each family, we will find the raw materials that compose it, enriching the olfactory character of that family.

Woody Fragrances for Men:

The woody family is a grouping of predominantly masculine tones. It comprises fragrances with a primary accord of woods such as cedar and sandalwood. Woody notes impart a warm and enveloping character to the composition and blend well with other olfactory families.

Aquatic-Woody Fragrances:

Including essential oils of wood, cedar, sandalwood, patchouli, or vetiver. Aquatic notes add marine or oceanic tones, refreshing the woody notes.

Woody Fragrances:

Offering warm and enveloping tones, combining wood notes with masculine aromatic notes like lavender, sage, basil, or thyme.

Woody-Chypre Fragrances:

Powerful and imposing, these fragrances blend the warm notes of the woody family with strong and luxurious chypre tones, leaving a lasting impression.

Woody-Floral-Musk Fragrances:

Blending warm tones with softened floral notes, often combined with musky notes, especially white musk, adding beautiful sensuality to the perfume.

Spicy-Woody Fragrances:

Spices bring strength and power to the composition, enhancing the initial woody notes with ingredients like pepper, coriander, or cinnamon.

Aromatic Fragrances for Men:

Under aromatic fragrances, we group aromatic herbs like sage, rosemary, lavender, or thyme. It is a highly popular family in men's perfumes, emanating great masculinity. Lavender, widely used in men's perfumery, takes center stage in this family.

Aquatic-Aromatic Fragrances:

Formulated with noble plant materials like lavender, sage, tarragon, gentian, or star anise. Associated with aquatic notes, the composition is both light and very masculine.

Aromatic-Fougère Fragrances:

Combining aromatic notes with fern family notes, highly popular in men's fragrances. Often, a heart with geranium and oakmoss as a base note creates ultra-masculine fragrances.

Aromatic-Fresh Fragrances:

Alongside aromatic notes, often vegetable, we sometimes associate fresh notes. This freshness is usually provided by the citrus family composed of citrus fruits like orange, grapefruit, lemon, or bergamot.

Green-Aromatic Fragrances:

Notes combining with lavender or basil. Among the notes providing more greenery, we find galbanum, lily of the valley, mint, or violet flower. Green aromatic scents are particularly appreciated in summer.

Citrus Fresh Fragrances for Men:

The citrus family is the oldest olfactory family, mainly composing men's cologne. It offers fresh and light tones, sometimes spicy. Here, you will find grapefruit, orange, bergamot, and lemon. Widely used in men's perfumery, citrus fragrance notes blend perfectly with other olfactory families.

Oriental Fragrances for Men:

The oriental family emits warm and sensual notes of vanilla or spices. This family gains its richness from powerful and oriental notes such as cinnamon, precious woods, vanilla, amber, or resins. With its powerful character, the oriental family combines with many tones to offer intense and original fragrances.

Oriental-Fougère Fragrances:

The Oriental family is one of the most popular in perfumery, primarily comprising warm notes. Common oriental notes include resinous smells, balsam, or spices. Fern notes bring great virility to the composition.

Oriental-Spicy Fragrances:

Oriental-spicy fragrances are attention-grabbing scents with strong, potent, and imposing spices that pair well with other spices or various balsams and resins.

Oriental-Woody Fragrances:

With very warm oriental notes, seductive tones like cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, or tonka bean are added. Chic, warm, and ultra-seductive, orient

Perfumes

Understanding Perfumes: Types, Composition, and Families

What Are the Different Types of Perfumes?

In a perfume bottle, there isn't just the fragrant substance; the perfume is primarily composed of a carrier whose role is to dissolve the fragrant substances well. There is a finisher, usually a fixative, which helps strengthen the fragrance's tenacity. The fixative is often in the form of iris root powder.
There is an abundance of perfumes, fragrances here and there that fill the shelves of perfumeries worldwide. But what's most impressive is that each of these aromas is unique. So, it's natural to ask the following question:

What are the differences between these fragrances based on?

We can differentiate perfumes based on various criteria. Firstly, there is a difference based on the nature of the medium.
There are 3 types of perfume according to this criterion:
1.    Alcoholic fragrances are the most common; the carrier is pure ethanol. It has the advantage of being very volatile, leaving only the scent on the skin.
2.    Oily fragrances are particularly gentle on the skin.
3.    Solid perfumes, commonly called "perfume concrete," where the perfume components are diluted in a "balm." These scents are applied in small quantities to selected areas.

Furthermore, a distinction can be made even in alcoholic perfumes, according to the content of fragrant compounds. In fact, in our perfumes, we see different names like "eau de parfum" or "eau de toilette." That's where the difference in quality lies, often related to the price difference between perfumes.

•    There are sweet waters or colognes that contain less than 8% fragrant substance. Fixation is about 1 hour.
•    Eau de Toilette has a concentration of 6 to 12%, for a fixation of about 3 hours.
•    Eau de parfum is part of this concentration growth with between 10 and 20% fragrant substance, for a period of several hours.
•    Finally, there are the perfumes themselves, which are composed of 15 to 40% fragrant material and ensure fixation for several days.

Perfume Composition: The Notes

When we talk about perfume, we often talk about notes: top, heart, base notes. They correspond to the composition in fragrant substances of the product:
•    Top notes: these are the first notes, those you feel as soon as the product disperses in the air; fresh notes of citrus fruits or herbs;
•    Heart notes: these are the ones that will smell for several hours, it's the character of the perfume; powerful notes of flowers, fruits;
•    Base notes: these are the notes that will last for several days, that will remain; warm and powerful notes of wood, moss.

Fragrance Families

When we go to a perfumery, we are usually asked what kind of perfume we like: more floral, woody, amber, etc.

There are seven main fragrance families:
1.    Citrus aromas: composed of fruit peels: orange, bergamot, citron;
2.    Floral fragrances: composed mainly of flowers: jasmine, rose, violet;
3.    Fern aromas: woody notes, lavender, oakmoss;
4.    Chypre scents: accords of oakmoss, patchouli, bergamot;
5.    Woody aromas: warm notes of sandalwood, patchouli, cedar;
6.    Amber aromas: oriental, sweet, powdery fragrances with vanilla;
7.    Leather perfumes: composed of dry notes of tobacco, smoke, burnt wood.

It is possible to distinguish perfumes based on the nature of the fragrant compound.
•    Most often, it is in the form of essential oils, which are concentrates of volatile molecules from the plant. They are obtained by distillation.
•    There are also many perfumes made from so-called "absolute" plant raw materials. Like essential oils, they are found in alcoholic, oily, and solid perfumes.
•    The third type of fragrant compound relatively present in the perfume market corresponds to CO2 extracts, which allow obtaining an odor closer to the plant than its essential oil. CO2 extracts are 100% natural and very ecological.

It should be noted that, with the industrialization of perfume and the progress of chemistry, synthetic processes emerge that allow the production of artificial fragrant compounds. Synthetic smell is sometimes more faithful than that of natural raw material, as in the case of rose.


 

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