Our Tips for Choosing and Using Gloss

Transparent or pigmented, shiny or matte, which effect to adopt?
You think you know everything about this essential item? Not so sure.
If slightly pigmented formulas with a clear shine are for everyone, they have the great advantage of "giving freshness to the lips, smoothing them, and rejuvenating them." Nice when you're in your 40s," says makeup artist Miky from Lancôme. Ultra-pigmented vinyl cover effect textures should be reserved for the young. "These lacquers are the hardest to use; they only work with a very stylish, rock'n'roll look," warns the makeup artist. As for matte glosses, which are shiny when applied, velvety when touched with fingers: "Even very pigmented, they are easy to use for everyone. The blurred finish, not too graphic, is softer," continues Miky. Regardless of the gloss, the trick to leaving an elegant finish is not to apply it too close to the edge of the lips.

What's in a Gloss?

Formulas have evolved a lot since the days when all you needed was a mix of shiny synthetic oils (because natural oils are absorbed by the lips), a hint of adhesive and texturizing agents, and a touch of pigments (1%). Much work has been done to achieve the best possible spread and flexibility on the lips but also to extend retention and limit the sticky effect. "We use thermoplastic polymers that react to the temperature of the lips and their movements," explains Sylvie Guichard from L'Oréal.

The effect: a "self-smoothing" texture (even if you bite your lips, they will smooth themselves out). Other techniques also work very well, such as the use of a gelling agent with a "cushion" effect, which fluidizes the contact with the lips and offers a rather smooth texture. And, to obtain well-pigmented formulas, "oil creams" have been developed, in which you can put four times more pigments than in a "classic" gloss. "All this is added to the meticulous work of foam applicators, whose shape, flexibility, and absorption dosage determine the correct spread," emphasizes Sylvie Guichard.

Novos 'Lip Gloss' à venda

Estée Lauder Pure Color Melt-On Glosstick

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