Choosing the Right Sunscreen: What You Need to Know

Summer is approaching, and everyone dreams of relaxing in the sun. While the sun is beneficial for both the body and mind, it can also be harmful to the skin. No exposure without protection!

 UVB is the primary cause of sunburns
No sun, no life. The sun is the source of multiple benefits for the body (providing warmth, synthesizing vitamin D through the skin, promoting a sense of physical well-being) and for the mind. It even improves certain skin conditions, such as psoriasis or eczema. However, if you overexpose yourself, the consequences can be harmful to the skin.
The ultraviolet radiation (UVA and UVB) emitted by solar radiation can cause irreversible damage to skin cells. UVB represents only 2% of ultraviolet rays, but they are highly energetic. They are the main culprits of sunburns, ranging from simple redness with a warming sensation to an actual burn with painful swelling accompanied by fever and headache. Repeated sunburns during childhood are risk factors for the development of skin cancer (melanomas, carcinomas) in adulthood.
On the other hand, UVA rays penetrate the dermis, causing degradation of collagen and elastin fibers and are the main culprits of accelerated skin aging (wrinkles, dry skin, appearance of brown spots). Sunscreen products should, therefore, prevent visible or invisible, immediate or long-term effects of UVB and UVA rays. To achieve this, they contain combined mineral filters that reflect UV and chemical filters that absorb UV. Mineral filters consist of inert powders (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) and do not cause allergies. Therefore, they are found mainly in sunscreen products intended for sensitive skin and children.

Four Categories of Sunscreen Products

Sunscreen products are classified according to their level of protection (sunburn protection factor or SPF), sun protection index (IP5), or even sun protection factor (SPF), into four categories:
1. Low protection, SPF between 6 and 14;
2. Medium protection, SPF between 15 and 29;
3. High protection, SPF between 30 and 59;
4. Very high protection, SPF of 60.

SPF does not guarantee a duration of protection: applying a sunscreen with a high index does not mean that sun exposure can be longer. It does not provide any information on UVA protection. That is why brands add protection against UVA, but there is no single index. As for the term "total protection," it should no longer be used.

How is the Protection Index Calculated?

The calculation of the protection index results from a method applied by all laboratories. Volunteers expose their backs, divided into different areas (one without sunscreen, the other or others covered with sunscreen), to artificial UV radiation. This determines the dose of radiation required to cause the equivalent of sunburn (minimum erythemal dose or MED). The protection index is the ratio between the MED on the skin protected by the product and the MED on the unprotected skin. Regardless of the brand, the SPF corresponds to the same level of protection. Note, however, during laboratory tests, 2 mg of sunscreen are used per square centimeter, which is never done in practice, as it would be equivalent to using a quarter tube of cream in a single application.

My Skin Type

 
Each of us has a unique ability to sunbathe and develop sunburns. This ability is determined by hereditary factors, such as skin or hair color, called phototype. Scientists generally classify skins into six categories. In practice, four main phototypes are distinguished:
1. Redheads with milky white skin, extremely sensitive to the sun;
2. Blondes with fair skin, sun-sensitive;
3. People with intermediate skin, brown hair with sufficiently thick, easily renewing skin, getting sunburned during very intense exposures;
4. People with fairly sun-resistant skin, brown hair, with easy tanning.

Which Product to Choose?

The choice of the protection coefficient should essentially depend on the skin's phototype and the intensity of the sun. Exposure can be:
• extreme (mountains, tropics);
• significant (beach, long outdoor activities, etc.);
• moderate (outdoor life...).
The lighter the skin color, the higher the exposure, and the higher the index.

Enhanced Protection for Children

Children spend most of their time outdoors and are not prepared to defend themselves from the sun. Their fragile skin retains the traces of sunburns for many years, which are risk factors for the development of skin cancer in adulthood. It is estimated that a child receives three times more UVB per year than an adult, and half of a person's sun exposure during life occurs before the age of 18.
If the sun is essential for health, it represents a danger to children's skin. Before the age of 3, direct sun exposure is prohibited because the skin is immature, thin, and vulnerable. Their thermoregulatory system is insufficient, and we must be very careful about the risks of dehydration and heatstroke. This fragility of children's skin persists until the age of 8-9. Therefore, it is advisable to expose them as little as possible and favor clothing protection. The sunscreen used should be of very high protection and "specifically for children." Avoid using products with chemical filters on young children.

Avoiding the Appearance of Small Blisters on the Neckline

After two or three days of exposure, you are covered with small blisters on your arms and neckline. This is undoubtedly Polymorphic Light Eruption (PLE): it is characterized by the appearance of red nodules accompanied by intense itching, mainly affecting young women.
These small pimples and itching disappear as soon as you stop exposing yourself. PLE is the result of sudden exposure to ultraviolet rays and can reappear every year if you are not careful. To avoid it, take supplements based on carotenoids (beta-carotene, lycopene) and antioxidant vitamins (A, C, E) three weeks before exposure and throughout the duration of sun exposure, which prepares the skin for tanning, strengthening its defenses. Expose yourself very gradually at the beginning, avoiding hours rich in UVB (12 to 4 pm), and use high protection sun products.

Self-Tanner, Soft and Tanned Skin

The self-tanner causes skin coloration without the intervention of solar radiation. Most often, it contains dihydroxyacetone or DMA, which darkens in the air through oxidation. It looks good two or three hours after application. It is then eliminated over the days. The obtained coloration is only superficial. Note that the self-tanner does not prevent the appearance of sunburns. It is advisable to exfoliate before application. This way, the coloration is more even, and the result is natural. Be sure to rinse your hands thoroughly after application.
 

Tips for Proper Use of Sunscreen Products

- Insist on sensitive areas (ears, neck, nose, shoulders).
- Gradually reduce the index as the tan intensifies.
- Apply sunscreen in a sufficiently thick layer and reapply every two hours and after bathing, even if the product is labeled as water-resistant.
- Avoid prolonged sun exposure, even with a high-index cream.
- Close the product well after use and store it in the shade.
- After opening, do not keep sunscreen for more than one season.

Medication + Sun, Beware of Danger

Certain medications increase skin sensitivity and can induce reactions. The intensity of the reaction depends on the dose and exposure to the drug. The responsible medications are numerous: certain antibiotics, anti-inflammatories, antidepressants. If you are taking any medication, consult your pharmacist before any exposure.


Did you know
On the beach, you are not fully protected under a parasol. This does not prevent the sunlight reflected by the sand.
Clouds, wind, and swimming have a misleading effect, giving you a false sense of freshness and the impression that the sun is not shining.

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