De farmácia a cosméticos

A marca SHISEIDO foi criada em 1872 por Arinobu Fukuhara no distrito de Ginza, em Tóquio, para desenvolver a primeira farmácia de cultura ocidental no Japão.

Em 1906, Shinzo Fukuhara, quarto filho de Arinobu, partiu para os Estados Unidos para adquirir conhecimento da farmacologia ocidental. Após seus estudos, ele viajou para a França, onde aprendeu a arte da fotografia.

Sua admiração pelas artes, ciência e cultura ocidental o levou a retornar ao Japão para introduzir um novo estilo de vida, combinando as tradições orientais com uma visão ocidental. Em 1915, Shinzo tornou-se o primeiro presidente da SHISEIDO e decidiu dedicar sua empresa à fabricação de cosméticos.

A sua paixão pela estética e inovação foi posta a serviço de uma cultura de excelência na concepção da empresa, uma reputação ainda ativa entre artistas e designers de todo o mundo. Através da visão de Shinzo Fukuhara, a SHISEIDO evoluiu para um laboratório de ideias artísticas e científicas, desenvolvendo constantemente o melhor de ambas, para melhorar a qualidade da vida cotidiana.

Em 1922, uma seção de cuidados para o cabelo foi criada dentro do departamento de cosméticos da Shiseido em Ginza para servir de base para o desenvolvimento de métodos de cuidado da pele. Ao apostar na sua atividade estética, a Shiseido passou as décadas seguintes a reinventar-se para oferecer constantemente novos produtos validados por esta atividade profissional.

 Salões Shiseido

A Shiseido inaugurou seu primeiro salão de beleza em Ginza em 1934. Posteriormente, em 1956, a marca inaugurou um salão de beleza completo (o primeiro Shiseido Beauty Salon) no antigo Tokyu Bunka Kaikan em Shibuya, que marcou o lançamento em larga escala de sua atividade estética . Desde então, a Shiseido tem ajudado mulheres a tornar suas vidas mais bonitas por meio de cuidados com os cabelos, maquilhagem e beleza, além de vender cosméticos. Após a abertura dos salões, a empresa criou um departamento dedicado à venda de produtos profissionais, que posteriormente foi ampliado para oferecer aos salões serviços completos. Por meio desses salões, a Shiseido deu uma grande contribuição para a indústria de cabelo e beleza.

Da Tailândia em 2001, a Shiseido expandiu seus negócios de produtos profissionais para nove países asiáticos, estabelecendo uma subsidiária no mercado asiático para acelerar significativamente a expansão de seus negócios locais de serviços de cabeleireiro e salão de beleza.

Em 2013, a empresa inaugurou o SHISEIDO PROFESSIONNEL Beauty Congress destinado a todos os profissionais asiáticos, inclusive japoneses. Paralelamente, a marca organizou e sediou o BEAUTY INNOVATOR AWARD, um dos maiores concursos de fotografia da Ásia, com o objetivo de apoiar a formação de gestores que irão liderar a indústria de salões de beleza no futuro. Eventos que pretendem contribuir significativamente para o desenvolvimento desta atividade em todo o mundo.

Hand Treatment

Hand Care

For dreamy hands and fairy fingers, take some care. Hands are exposed and subjected to daily external aggressions, making them fragile. Several factors weaken them and accelerate skin aging: cold, sun, and the use of chemical products.

Sensitive Hands

The skin of the hands is extremely thin and fragile. Naturally dry, it contains few sebaceous glands, promoting the production of natural protection, making them more vulnerable. The epidermis of the hands is poorly hydrated. The synthesis of natural hydration factors is much lower compared to the face. This leads to almost continuous dehydration, requiring the use of products capable of compensating for this lack and consequently halting the acceleration of hand aging.

Accelerating Factors for Hand Aging

• Frio, inimigo número um. Inimigo real das mãos, o frio reduz as defesas naturais da pele e afeta a sua proteção. A pele seca torna-se mais vulnerável e as glândulas sebáceas vêem sua secreção desacelerada pelo frio. Irritações e rachaduras aparecem. Para combater a queda de temperatura, o fluxo sanguíneo é mais lento e a pele menos bem nutrida encolhe.

• Produtos domésticos. Os detergentes alteram a proteção da epiderme e enfraquecem as mãos. O uso repetido desses produtos e o contato frequente das mãos com a água aumentam o risco de infeções bacterianas.

• O sol. Tal como o frio, o sol também é prejudicial à pele frágil das mãos. Seca e enruga-a.

To End Damaged Hands

1. Use moisturizers concentrated in glycerin, which leave a protective film on the skin surface.
2. Cover your hands with vaseline or paraffin and wear cotton gloves overnight. Your hands will be like new in the morning.
3. Moisturize your hands with creams throughout the winter.

Cosmetics for Women

What is natural or not in cosmetics?

There seems to be confusion between petrochemical synthesis products and toxicity, especially when it comes to cosmetics. Here are some keys to better understand.
In recent years, there has been an awareness of the composition and impact of what we consume every day, also around the cosmetics industry and the substances used.

Chemical or natural?

Often, this tension arises from a dichotomy between "chemical products" and "natural products," with the latter being presented as better.
However, there is a nuance to be observed because saying "chemical" does not necessarily mean harmful, toxic, or controversial!

"Chemical Products" What exactly is a chemical product in cosmetics?

It is a generic term that does not mean much from a scientific point of view. This expression is often used by the general public to designate a synthetic product or, in a broader sense, something that has undergone a transformation by humans. However, chemical reactions also occur in contact with various natural products that are not processed. For example, by mixing lemon and chalk (which is limestone), you can get CO2!
What is a synthetic product? Chemical synthesis involves creating molecules by assembling already existing products, usually derived from petrochemicals. The creation processes can vary from heating to extracting molecules to alter their biological characteristics, assembling them differently.
However, we have synthetic compounds that do not use petrochemicals, such as silicones, which are created quite differently.

Why use synthetic substances in cosmetics?

Use of synthetic substances to diversify the sensory experience
Synthetic substances are used to obtain a variety of textures, fragrances, colors, and detergents (cleaning action) in cosmetic products. It is also necessary to preserve the products. Indeed, until now, chemists do not have natural preservatives as effective as synthetic preservatives. A natural preservative can prevent the proliferation of bacteria, fungi, and yeasts for only 1 to 2 months at most, especially if the cosmetic product is solid. It is much more complicated for creams and liquids.

Use of synthetic substances in an economic and ecological approach

There is also an economic and ecological imperative because cultivating natural actives is expensive and can lead to waste, such as cultivating entire fields of avocados to extract oil. It will consume a lot of water, while an avocado-based active will consume less energy and be easily reproducible. It is also for this reason that chemists strive to isolate molecules responsible for benefits and reproduce them to achieve maximum efficiency. For example, the flavonoids found in the Ginkgo Biloba tree drain and activate microcirculation, and that's what we consumers find in eye creams! And that, without cultivating entire forests.

Synthetic compounds that cannot be replaced by natural compounds

By unanimity, young people answered "no": certain products cannot be reproduced by natural active ingredients. I quote, for example, emulsification - that's why natural shampoo does not foam. Similarly, the touch brought by silicone does not exist naturally. Otherwise, that's why organic labels Ecocert and Cosmebio currently tolerate 5 synthetic preservatives. A large part of synthetic ingredients are derived from natural ones that have been used. Therefore, you can find equivalent products, but they will necessarily be less potent than the concentrated version and more expensive.

Is it not possible to go 100% natural on a large scale?

Admitting that 100% natural includes natural and naturally derived ingredients, it is possible, but these products will not keep well, and this is a concern when offering them to consumers. Certified natural or organic products can advertise compositions with 97 or 99% natural because the only synthetic compounds are preservatives. On the other hand, for certain products like oils, chemists add vitamin E (tocopherol)! Conclusion: the natural way to make your own product at home does not cause problems, but on an industrial scale, it is more complicated.

"Ingredients of natural origin" and organic ingredients

What does "ingredients of natural origin" mean?
An ingredient of natural origin has undergone a modification and is not in the same state as it came out of the plant or mineral from which it comes. This is the case, for example, for ingredients obtained by fermentation, such as hyaluronic acid, obtained from yeasts to which chemists add chemicals.
The same goes for soap, obtained through a saponification process.
Are certain ingredients not of natural origin?
Yes, some ingredients are not of natural origin: their origin is purely petrochemical. This is the case for vaseline and mineral oils.

Are organic ingredients really better?

Currently available studies show that untreated plants that had to defend themselves against the environment to grow are more loaded with nutrients, so they are considered good. Organic production also respects the environment more, as you can imagine.
When we add to this an organic certification in the final product, it is a guarantee of rigor with controls throughout the production chain.
In the certification process of an organic product, we audit the entire chain of products, i.e., we start from the farmer who grows his olives to the brand that sells the product to the consumer.
With all these players, we will check whether the regulations (in organic farming for olives and oil) and standards (Ecocert or Cosmos since 2017 for the cosmetics part) are well respected.
For example: no environmentally toxic cleaning product is used to clean manufacturing tanks, etc.
These labels ensure the absence of controversial substances.
Note that some certifications work differently; therefore, discover the specifications of those that interest you!

Toxic and controversial substances

What is a controversial substance?
Ah, finally, we address the subject of the famous controversial substances. These ingredients have been the subject of studies that seem to indicate they may pose a risk to consumer health. The problem is that there is no consensus in the scientific community; therefore, some advocate not using them while others call for more studies. Meanwhile, these ingredients are sometimes replaced by others, compared to which science really does not move away because they were recently invented. An example is paraben. Parabens (there are several types) have been disapproved because a study links the presence of certain parabens to breast cancer in rats.
As no one else bought products with parabens, laboratories decided to replace it with MIT (MethylIsoThiazolinone), another very powerful preservative.
And unlucky, MIT is not really good, as evidenced, it is now banned. However,  no one knew among consumers.
This example is one of the reasons that explain why compositions are not systematically changed in case of unproven suspicion.

How to recognize dangerous substances in the composition of a cosmetic?

This question remains complex.
First, there is European regulation as the first filter; this legislation prohibits ingredients when health risks are demonstrated. If products from non-EU countries contain a prohibited ingredient, it will be the first warning sign.
Moreover, the same study conducted by an independent laboratory is often interpreted differently.
The goal of consuming as much natural products as possible is just the first step because not everything is available in a natural state, and natural is not synonymous with safety.
Natural often means "inert to health" for people, and that is not true. On the contrary, there are cancer drugs developed from plant active ingredients, proving, if necessary, that nature is very potent.
All this to say that zero risk does not exist, and it is not due to laboratories' bad intentions, but also because we move very quickly and do not always have perspective on everything.

Cosmetics

Introduction to Cosmetics

Cosmetics are non-medicinal substances and preparations intended to come into contact with different surface parts of the human body (e.g., epidermis, teeth, nails, hair, lips, etc.) with the goal of minimal risk. They do not act in depth and are not essential for the proper functioning of the body. Instead, they are reserved for body care, beauty, and cleanliness, with their sole purpose being to cleanse, beautify, protect, and perfume the body.

It's important not to confuse cosmetics with cosmetic: cosmetics refer to the world of skincare, all techniques, processes, and products used for beautification, while cosmetic is the product itself.

To Use or Not to Use Cosmetics?

Cosmetics come in various forms (gels, creams, emulsions, lotions, etc.) and serve the purpose of well-being without acting as medicines. All cosmetics have a roughly similar composition, consisting of excipients, active substances, and additives.

• Excipient: It allows the active substance to act where it should. Common excipients include water, oils, and alcohol, with natural alternatives like sweet almond, avocado, or shea butter. Silicones, on the other hand, are synthetic excipients.
• Active Substance: Gives the cosmetic "care" properties and is not the most significant substance in terms of product quantity. Examples include zinc, vitamins, clay, and various fruits and vegetables.
• Additive: Enhances and stimulates the cosmetic's action. Cosmetic additives include preservatives, antioxidants, colorants, and adjuvants for coloring, perfuming, foaming, etc.

Cosmetics include:

• Hygiene products for the body, such as toothpaste, shower gel, shampoo, deodorant.
• Skin products, often in cream form, like anti-wrinkle cream, day and night cream, lip balm, face mask, etc.
• Hair products, directly applied to the hair, such as conditioner, hair spray, gel, dyes.
• Makeup products, predominantly used by women, including mascara, eyeliner, gloss, foundation, blush, lipstick, nail polish, self-tanner.
• Perfume, cologne, and toilet water.
• Sunscreen products to protect the skin from UV rays, like sunscreens, post-exposure lotions, and creams.
• Shaving and depilatory products, such as shaving foam, post-shave foam, and depilatory cream.
• Bath and shower preparations, such as bath salts, foaming bath, and bath oil.

Not considered cosmetics:

• Food products, as cosmetics cannot be consumed.
• Medicines or drugs, as cosmetics do not have curative properties.

Cosmetics and Their History:

The earliest use of cosmetics dates back almost as far as humanity. Prehistoric people produced body paints from mineral sources mixed with fatty substances.

In ancient times, civilizations like the Egyptians, Babylonians, and Hebrews used cosmetics for magical, medical, and ritualistic purposes, including body and face paints, oils, perfumes, and ointments.

During the Middle Ages, cosmetics were primarily used to represent the Western feminine ideal of pale skin and rosy cheeks, but these products were only available to the wealthy.

In the 18th century, cosmetics became more accessible to all social classes, and the consumption of perfumes increased during the Renaissance. However, awareness grew about certain cosmetic ingredients like lead, which could harm the skin or even lead to death.

Since the 20th century, with industrialization, cosmetics have become more diverse and affordable, often made with synthetic or petroleum-derived ingredients.

Today, cosmetics are used for personal satisfaction, to feel beautiful and confident. Men are increasingly using cosmetics, and they are used across all generations for various purposes, from baby care to anti-aging creams for the elderly.

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