A marca de cosméticos Estée Lauder não tem 100 anos, mas conseguiu o feito de deixar sua marca na história da beleza com suas muitas inovações e revoluções

Enquanto as mulheres sempre gostaram de cuidar dela - do Egito Antigo ao Renascimento e aos Anos 20, a beleza tem sido uma questão de maquilhagem. Blush, delineador, batom ... os produtos de maquilhagem que conhecemos hoje têm uma longa história para contar, o que certamente não é o caso dos produtos para a pele. Sim, os cremes diurnos, seruns, contornos oculares e máscaras que usamos diariamente chegaram muito mais tarde, basta aprender a rotina de cuidados de nossas avós para perceber que nada nada disso existia. Foi em meados do século passado, na década de 1950, que surgiram no mercado os primeiros socorros técnicos e específicos, uma pequena revolução que é comumente atribuída à americana Estée Lauder.
Foi em Nova York que Josephine Esther Mentzer cresceu no início do século XX, uma menina nascida de pai tchecoslovaco e mãe húngara. Antes de se interessar pela beleza, é pela comédia que a jovem desenvolve uma paixão. Felizmente para nós, ela abandonou o teatro alguns anos depois: "Eu queria ver meu nome no topo do pôster, mas estava pronta para sacrificar esse sonho para ter meu nome em uma jarra de creme", explica ela em lembrando como ela descobriu o mundo cosmético. Surpreendida pelo ritual de sua mãe e iniciada na arte da composição por seu tio químico, era realmente muito jovem que ela caiu na panela e descobriu um amor pelo mundo da beleza
Em 1946, Estée Lauder - casada desde 1930 com Joseph Lauder - criou sua própria marca com o lançamento de uma loção, creme e limpador facial, que promoveu em toda a Nova York diretamente a clientes em salões de beleza. Após longos esforços, ela consegue convidar sua marca para as prateleiras da Saks Fifth Avenue e impulsiona seu lançamento oferecendo aos clientes fiéis da loja de departamentos um presente para cada compra. Uma pequena revolução que será retomada para se tornar o que sabemos hoje: amostras. Foi em 1953 que sua linha homônima experimentou um pico de notoriedade, com o zumbido causado pelo lançamento de seu primeiro perfume e a campanha nua que o acompanhou. Mais tarde será dito que ela pulverizou seu suco Youth-Dew no chão de uma loja de departamentos para promovê-lo, enquanto lutava para vendê-lo.
Não contente por ter estado na linha da frente com sua campanha de enxofre e o desenvolvimento de seu primeiro tratamento premium (gastar cem dólares em um produto de beleza era então inconcebível; mas Estée Lauder conseguiu lembrar às mulheres que 'eles só têm uma pele), a mulher de negócios aborda as coleções. Em 1962, ela inventou notavelmente o conceito de coleção de maquilhagem, imaginada de acordo com as estações do ano. Uma novidade no setor, que permite que você se renove regularmente e tenha uma oferta em constante evolução. O sucesso de Estée Lauder estava no auge, e ela abriu seu próprio laboratório nos anos seguintes, um local de pesquisa, experimentação e desenvolvimento para todos os produtos que deseja oferecer às mulheres. Em particular, ela criou o primeiro serum no mercado em 1982, o Advanced Night Repair essencial formulado com ácido hialurônico.
Hoje, apesar do desaparecimento de seu fundador em 2003, a marca Estée Lauder está mais forte do que nunca, energizada pela constante inovação e comunicação perfeitamente orquestrada. Com seu exército de musas estelares (Gwyneth Paltrow, Eva Mendes, Constance Jablonski ou Kendall Jenner fazem parte dele), fotografada pelos maiores nomes da indústria, Estée Lauder conseguiu evoluir com o tempo, transformar sua imagem não muito maduro e obsoleto para desenvolver sua clientela e perpetuar sua marca. Tão estimada e influente quanto a maquiadora Charlotte Tilbury, Josephine Esther Lauder conseguiu dar uma contribuição notável à história da beleza; e quando foi escrito por mais de 2000 anos, podemos realmente dizer que isso é um feito ...

Anti-Wrinkle

How to Choose the Right Anti-Wrinkle Cream?

Knowing how to choose an anti-wrinkle cream tailored to your needs is the first step in the fight against aging.

Over the years, signs of aging, such as fine lines or wrinkles, appear more or less rapidly.
Show beautiful skin for as long as possible by applying an anti-wrinkle cream adapted to your needs.

What are the Different Types of Wrinkle Creams?

•    Anti-wrinkle creams with antioxidant properties, thanks to the presence of vitamins C, E, or selenium, for example, that protect the skin from external aggressions (pollution, UV, etc.).

•    Creams based on fruit acids, called AHAs, mainly used for their light peeling effect, increasing skin brightness and stimulating collagen production.


•    Creams containing retinoic acid, the most powerful molecule in wrinkle treatment but also the least well-tolerated. This type of cream is available only by prescription. Therefore, we often find related creams composed of retinol, vitamin A derivatives, which are better tolerated. Their use is recommended from the age of 35.


These different categories of anti-wrinkle creams should also be adapted according to your skin type because not all skin types have the same needs.

How to Choose Cream According to Your Skin Type?

•    Thin skin should preferably use anti-wrinkle creams with vitamin C (which promotes collagenesis) to restore density and possibly creams containing vitamin A derivatives. Young skin (20 to 30 years) can also use this type of cream for prevention.

•    Thicker skins, in the case of smokers or those exposed to a lot of sun, are recommended to use creams with fruit acids for the peeling effect, which thins the stratum corneum of the skin and restores radiance to these often slightly dull skins.

•    Time-damaged and wrinkled skin, use creams based on retinoic acid, if tolerated.

Tips for Using Anti-Wrinkle Creams?

For women exposed to pollution, UV, smoke, apply an antioxidant cream in the morning to protect the skin during the day and apply anti-wrinkle cream (based on vitamin A or fruit acids) at night. All on very clean skin.
 Finally, it is necessary to apply these products regularly and alternate the types of products used, every six months, for example. It is important not to use the same product all the time because there is often a quick effect on the skin, then there is a moment when no more benefits are observed. In general, precise gestures are also necessary to improve the effectiveness of the treatment.

Is Price a Guarantee of Quality?

Yes, in the sense that if certain creams are expensive, it's because the laboratories that market them have a large budget dedicated to the research and formulation of creams with effective and efficient molecules. But not in the sense that the profit obtained is not high enough compared to a "normal" cream to justify this price difference. In other words, if a cream is three times more expensive than another, it may be slightly more effective, but certainly not three times more effective.

Finally, Does Wrinkle Cream Work?

 
Yes, if you remember that it is a local treatment that can slightly reduce wrinkles. Anti-wrinkle creams have cosmetic effectiveness: they allow for an aesthetic result, a better appearance of the skin.

Facial Care

Types of Women's Facial Cosmetics: Importance of Skin Care

Caring for the skin on the face is an essential part of any woman's beauty routine. With a wide variety of cosmetics available in the market, it's important to understand the different types of products for the face and how they can benefit the health and appearance of the skin. In this article, we will explore the various types of facial cosmetics for women and highlight the importance of proper skin care.

1. Facial Cleansing:

The first step in an effective facial care routine is proper skin cleansing. Facial cleansing products, such as soaps, gels, and foams, gently remove impurities, excess oil, and dead cells. This helps keep pores clean, preventing acne and allowing the skin to breathe.

2. Toners and Astringents:

Toners and astringents complement facial cleansing by removing any remaining residue and balancing the skin's pH. They help minimize the appearance of pores, reduce excess oil, and prepare the skin for subsequent treatments.

3. Moisturizers:

Moisturizers are essential for keeping the skin on the face hydrated and healthy. There are different types of moisturizers, such as creams, lotions, and gels, formulated to meet the specific needs of each skin type. They provide moisture, restore the skin's protective barrier, and help prevent dehydration and premature aging.

4. Sunscreen:

Sunscreen is one of the most important cosmetics for women's faces. It protects the skin from the harmful UV rays of the sun, preventing damage, spots, premature aging, and reducing the risk of skin cancer. It is essential to choose a sunscreen suitable for the skin type and apply it daily, even on cloudy days or during indoor activities.

5. Specific Treatments:

There are various specific treatments for the face that address individual concerns such as acne, wrinkles, spots, sagging, or sensitivity. These treatments may include serums, facial masks, gentle exfoliants, anti-aging creams, brighteners, and more. It's important to choose products suitable for the skin type and follow the usage instructions.

The Importance of Caring for the Skin:

Caring for the skin on the face is fundamental to maintaining a healthy and radiant appearance. In addition to improving self-confidence and self-esteem, proper facial care helps prevent issues such as acne, premature aging, spots, sensitivity, and other unwanted conditions. Here are some points that highlight the importance of caring for the skin on the face:

1. Skin Health: A consistent facial care routine helps maintain skin health by strengthening its protective barrier and promoting cell renewal. This contributes to skin that is more resistant to damage, infections, and irritations.

2. Prevention of Sun Damage: Excessive exposure to UV rays can lead to skin damage, such as sunburn, dark spots, wrinkles, and even skin cancer. Regular use of sunscreen helps protect the skin from the harmful effects of the sun, preserving its health and beauty.

3. Hydration and Nutrition: The skin on the face needs adequate hydration to maintain its elasticity, smoothness, and glow. Moisturizers provide the necessary moisture to the skin, preventing dryness and peeling. Additionally, many facial products contain nourishing ingredients that help nourish and revitalize the skin.

4. Prevention of Premature Aging: Signs of aging, such as wrinkles, fine lines, and sagging, can be minimized with a proper facial care routine. The use of anti-aging products, such as creams and serums, helps keep the skin firm, smooth, and youthful-looking for a longer time.

5. Self-Esteem and Well-Being: Caring for the skin on the face goes beyond physical benefits. Healthy and well-cared-for skin can boost a woman's self-esteem and confidence. Feeling good about one's appearance contributes to emotional and mental well-being.

Conclusion:

The different types of cosmetics for the face offer a variety of benefits for women's skin. From proper cleansing to sunscreen and specific treatments, each product plays an important role in maintaining the health and beauty of the skin. Caring for the skin on the face is not just a matter of aesthetics but also of health and well-being. Therefore, it is essential to develop a consistent facial care routine and choose products suitable for your skin type. This way, you will be investing in healthy, radiant skin with a rejuvenated appearance for many years.

Cosmetics for Women

What is natural or not in cosmetics?

There seems to be confusion between petrochemical synthesis products and toxicity, especially when it comes to cosmetics. Here are some keys to better understand.
In recent years, there has been an awareness of the composition and impact of what we consume every day, also around the cosmetics industry and the substances used.

Chemical or natural?

Often, this tension arises from a dichotomy between "chemical products" and "natural products," with the latter being presented as better.
However, there is a nuance to be observed because saying "chemical" does not necessarily mean harmful, toxic, or controversial!

"Chemical Products" What exactly is a chemical product in cosmetics?

It is a generic term that does not mean much from a scientific point of view. This expression is often used by the general public to designate a synthetic product or, in a broader sense, something that has undergone a transformation by humans. However, chemical reactions also occur in contact with various natural products that are not processed. For example, by mixing lemon and chalk (which is limestone), you can get CO2!
What is a synthetic product? Chemical synthesis involves creating molecules by assembling already existing products, usually derived from petrochemicals. The creation processes can vary from heating to extracting molecules to alter their biological characteristics, assembling them differently.
However, we have synthetic compounds that do not use petrochemicals, such as silicones, which are created quite differently.

Why use synthetic substances in cosmetics?

Use of synthetic substances to diversify the sensory experience
Synthetic substances are used to obtain a variety of textures, fragrances, colors, and detergents (cleaning action) in cosmetic products. It is also necessary to preserve the products. Indeed, until now, chemists do not have natural preservatives as effective as synthetic preservatives. A natural preservative can prevent the proliferation of bacteria, fungi, and yeasts for only 1 to 2 months at most, especially if the cosmetic product is solid. It is much more complicated for creams and liquids.

Use of synthetic substances in an economic and ecological approach

There is also an economic and ecological imperative because cultivating natural actives is expensive and can lead to waste, such as cultivating entire fields of avocados to extract oil. It will consume a lot of water, while an avocado-based active will consume less energy and be easily reproducible. It is also for this reason that chemists strive to isolate molecules responsible for benefits and reproduce them to achieve maximum efficiency. For example, the flavonoids found in the Ginkgo Biloba tree drain and activate microcirculation, and that's what we consumers find in eye creams! And that, without cultivating entire forests.

Synthetic compounds that cannot be replaced by natural compounds

By unanimity, young people answered "no": certain products cannot be reproduced by natural active ingredients. I quote, for example, emulsification - that's why natural shampoo does not foam. Similarly, the touch brought by silicone does not exist naturally. Otherwise, that's why organic labels Ecocert and Cosmebio currently tolerate 5 synthetic preservatives. A large part of synthetic ingredients are derived from natural ones that have been used. Therefore, you can find equivalent products, but they will necessarily be less potent than the concentrated version and more expensive.

Is it not possible to go 100% natural on a large scale?

Admitting that 100% natural includes natural and naturally derived ingredients, it is possible, but these products will not keep well, and this is a concern when offering them to consumers. Certified natural or organic products can advertise compositions with 97 or 99% natural because the only synthetic compounds are preservatives. On the other hand, for certain products like oils, chemists add vitamin E (tocopherol)! Conclusion: the natural way to make your own product at home does not cause problems, but on an industrial scale, it is more complicated.

"Ingredients of natural origin" and organic ingredients

What does "ingredients of natural origin" mean?
An ingredient of natural origin has undergone a modification and is not in the same state as it came out of the plant or mineral from which it comes. This is the case, for example, for ingredients obtained by fermentation, such as hyaluronic acid, obtained from yeasts to which chemists add chemicals.
The same goes for soap, obtained through a saponification process.
Are certain ingredients not of natural origin?
Yes, some ingredients are not of natural origin: their origin is purely petrochemical. This is the case for vaseline and mineral oils.

Are organic ingredients really better?

Currently available studies show that untreated plants that had to defend themselves against the environment to grow are more loaded with nutrients, so they are considered good. Organic production also respects the environment more, as you can imagine.
When we add to this an organic certification in the final product, it is a guarantee of rigor with controls throughout the production chain.
In the certification process of an organic product, we audit the entire chain of products, i.e., we start from the farmer who grows his olives to the brand that sells the product to the consumer.
With all these players, we will check whether the regulations (in organic farming for olives and oil) and standards (Ecocert or Cosmos since 2017 for the cosmetics part) are well respected.
For example: no environmentally toxic cleaning product is used to clean manufacturing tanks, etc.
These labels ensure the absence of controversial substances.
Note that some certifications work differently; therefore, discover the specifications of those that interest you!

Toxic and controversial substances

What is a controversial substance?
Ah, finally, we address the subject of the famous controversial substances. These ingredients have been the subject of studies that seem to indicate they may pose a risk to consumer health. The problem is that there is no consensus in the scientific community; therefore, some advocate not using them while others call for more studies. Meanwhile, these ingredients are sometimes replaced by others, compared to which science really does not move away because they were recently invented. An example is paraben. Parabens (there are several types) have been disapproved because a study links the presence of certain parabens to breast cancer in rats.
As no one else bought products with parabens, laboratories decided to replace it with MIT (MethylIsoThiazolinone), another very powerful preservative.
And unlucky, MIT is not really good, as evidenced, it is now banned. However,  no one knew among consumers.
This example is one of the reasons that explain why compositions are not systematically changed in case of unproven suspicion.

How to recognize dangerous substances in the composition of a cosmetic?

This question remains complex.
First, there is European regulation as the first filter; this legislation prohibits ingredients when health risks are demonstrated. If products from non-EU countries contain a prohibited ingredient, it will be the first warning sign.
Moreover, the same study conducted by an independent laboratory is often interpreted differently.
The goal of consuming as much natural products as possible is just the first step because not everything is available in a natural state, and natural is not synonymous with safety.
Natural often means "inert to health" for people, and that is not true. On the contrary, there are cancer drugs developed from plant active ingredients, proving, if necessary, that nature is very potent.
All this to say that zero risk does not exist, and it is not due to laboratories' bad intentions, but also because we move very quickly and do not always have perspective on everything.

Cosmetics

Introduction to Cosmetics

Cosmetics are non-medicinal substances and preparations intended to come into contact with different surface parts of the human body (e.g., epidermis, teeth, nails, hair, lips, etc.) with the goal of minimal risk. They do not act in depth and are not essential for the proper functioning of the body. Instead, they are reserved for body care, beauty, and cleanliness, with their sole purpose being to cleanse, beautify, protect, and perfume the body.

It's important not to confuse cosmetics with cosmetic: cosmetics refer to the world of skincare, all techniques, processes, and products used for beautification, while cosmetic is the product itself.

To Use or Not to Use Cosmetics?

Cosmetics come in various forms (gels, creams, emulsions, lotions, etc.) and serve the purpose of well-being without acting as medicines. All cosmetics have a roughly similar composition, consisting of excipients, active substances, and additives.

• Excipient: It allows the active substance to act where it should. Common excipients include water, oils, and alcohol, with natural alternatives like sweet almond, avocado, or shea butter. Silicones, on the other hand, are synthetic excipients.
• Active Substance: Gives the cosmetic "care" properties and is not the most significant substance in terms of product quantity. Examples include zinc, vitamins, clay, and various fruits and vegetables.
• Additive: Enhances and stimulates the cosmetic's action. Cosmetic additives include preservatives, antioxidants, colorants, and adjuvants for coloring, perfuming, foaming, etc.

Cosmetics include:

• Hygiene products for the body, such as toothpaste, shower gel, shampoo, deodorant.
• Skin products, often in cream form, like anti-wrinkle cream, day and night cream, lip balm, face mask, etc.
• Hair products, directly applied to the hair, such as conditioner, hair spray, gel, dyes.
• Makeup products, predominantly used by women, including mascara, eyeliner, gloss, foundation, blush, lipstick, nail polish, self-tanner.
• Perfume, cologne, and toilet water.
• Sunscreen products to protect the skin from UV rays, like sunscreens, post-exposure lotions, and creams.
• Shaving and depilatory products, such as shaving foam, post-shave foam, and depilatory cream.
• Bath and shower preparations, such as bath salts, foaming bath, and bath oil.

Not considered cosmetics:

• Food products, as cosmetics cannot be consumed.
• Medicines or drugs, as cosmetics do not have curative properties.

Cosmetics and Their History:

The earliest use of cosmetics dates back almost as far as humanity. Prehistoric people produced body paints from mineral sources mixed with fatty substances.

In ancient times, civilizations like the Egyptians, Babylonians, and Hebrews used cosmetics for magical, medical, and ritualistic purposes, including body and face paints, oils, perfumes, and ointments.

During the Middle Ages, cosmetics were primarily used to represent the Western feminine ideal of pale skin and rosy cheeks, but these products were only available to the wealthy.

In the 18th century, cosmetics became more accessible to all social classes, and the consumption of perfumes increased during the Renaissance. However, awareness grew about certain cosmetic ingredients like lead, which could harm the skin or even lead to death.

Since the 20th century, with industrialization, cosmetics have become more diverse and affordable, often made with synthetic or petroleum-derived ingredients.

Today, cosmetics are used for personal satisfaction, to feel beautiful and confident. Men are increasingly using cosmetics, and they are used across all generations for various purposes, from baby care to anti-aging creams for the elderly.

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