Terry de Gunzburg é uma lenda de vanguarda que, nos últimos 30 anos, transformou a imagem da beleza.

Originalmente de uma família de cientistas, Terry inicialmente embarcou em estudos médicos, mas rapidamente decidiu seguir um caminho mais criativo. Ela então ingressou na prestigiada escola de beleza Carita, em Paris, e rapidamente se tornou uma maquiadora de estúdio muito requisitada entre os maiores nomes da moda, de Helmut Newton a Guy Bourdin. O olhar de assinatura dela? Uma base imperceptível, lábios impecáveis ​​e cílios grossos e perfeitamente separados.

Mas é sua colaboração com Yves Saint Laurent que deixa uma marca realmente indelével na história da moda e da beleza. Como diretor artístico da YSL Beauté por 15 anos, Terry inventou inúmeros produtos e fórmulas, incluindo o icônico Touche Eclat em 1992. De fato, segundo Terry, o brilho natural de uma pele saudável permanece a base fundamental para maquilhagem perfeita, então, quando ela decidiu lançar sua própria coleção de produtos em 1998, By Terry ofereceu acima de tudo uma oferta de beleza de "alta costura" com cosméticos feitos sob medida.

Não mais de um ano depois, diante do sucesso de suas criações, Terry decide introduzir uma linha de beleza ultra luxuosa que rapidamente se tornará culto. Em 2004, o laboratório cometeu um erro ao adicionar uma dose dupla de manteiga de rosas a uma fórmula de bálsamo para lábios, que rapidamente se tornou o best seller de Terry: o famoso bálsamo de rosas. Descrito como o Rolls de protetores labiais, simboliza tudo o que a marca representa: luxo, prazer, um clássico atemporal.

Em 2012, Terry apresentou sua primeira coleção de Haute Fragrance em colaboração com Michel Almairac. Cada perfume é composto em Grasse e presta homenagem ao raro e ao precioso. Três anos depois, a Terry lançou a linha Expert, caracterizada por cosméticos multifuncionais de dupla ação, combinando o produto e a ferramenta de aplicação.

Terry atende às necessidades de todas as mulheres que são pressionadas por seus muitos papéis na vida, criando uma coleção que é prática e fácil de usar, mas que permanece acima de tudo profissional. Em setembro de 2017, a gama Expert aumentou para oferecer ainda mais opções para mulheres pressionadas pela vida moderna.

Lip Treatment

How to Care for and Hydrate Your Lips?

When asked what one likes to appreciate in a person, they will respond, like most people, that it is the lips, as they are a symbol of sensuality. Unfortunately, the cold temperatures have arrived, and our entire body suffers, especially the lips. Why?

Hydrating our lips helps repair them, strengthen them, and make them visually more beautiful.

Before hydrating our lips, we must first exfoliate them. For this, a homemade "recipe": honey with a little sugar. Gently rub this mixture on the lips, leave it on for a few minutes, and rinse with warm water. If you don't like honey, replace it with olive oil. After exfoliation, applying a lip balm is a must. This allows deep hydration and can be taken wherever you go.

Do not:

• Do not lick your lips because it actually dries them out. Even though it may initially seem to have a positive effect, it evaporates quickly and dries. Moreover, our saliva contains enzymes that dehydrate our tissues.
• Avoid applying long-lasting lipsticks as they not only dry out the mouth but also prevent the lips from breathing.
• Avoid foods that are high in acidity, such as lemon, vinegar, or even mustard, and spicy dishes. They sting, hurt, and are not good for the lips. Use a fork to avoid direct contact with the skin.
• Breathing through the mouth promotes cracks; therefore, when thinking about it, breathe through the nose.
• Cigarettes dehydrate and discolor the lips, so avoid smoking.

What natural products to use to hydrate the lips in winter?

What do beeswax, honey, and vegetable oils have in common? All these ingredients can help save your lips in winter. Less irritating and especially much less harmful than certain lip balms, they are, however, very effective against chapped skin and small unpleasant bleeding associated with the cold. Furthermore, you don't need to look far to find them. A quick tour of the kitchen and you're ready.

To avoid drying out: drink plenty of water

Drinking at least a liter of water a day, even in winter, is the key to healthy lips all year round. If you engage in a lot of sports, it is advisable to increase the amount to be ingested, with good hydration being essential to avoid cracks. It's a good principle.

For lip hydration: beeswax and almond oil

If drinking is not enough to keep your lips healthy, there are many ethical and economical tips to save them. The most effective: the mixture of beeswax and almond oil (organic for purists). When heated over low heat, they provide the necessary hydration for your lips to stay hydrated until spring arrives. If you don't have almond oil, you can replace it with shea butter. Another good hydration plan is coconut oil, which has soothing properties.

To repair chapped lips: a mixture of honey and vegetable oil

If your lips are extremely chapped, they will certainly need good treatment. For this, nothing could be simpler, just bring honey and vegetable oil, a perfect fatty substance. First step, apply a thin layer of honey. Then let it sit for fifteen minutes and rinse with warm water. Apply castor oil or olive oil and let it act again for fifteen minutes.

To heal lip wounds: aloe vera gel

Aloe vera gel is the miraculous cure for chapped skin. This succulent plant is truly able to absorb moisture from the air around it, but also that which is deposited on your lips and creates these cracks. It also acts as a water reservoir for the skin. The gel is applied directly to the lips just like a lip balm, anytime during the day.

Cosmetics for Women

What is natural or not in cosmetics?

There seems to be confusion between petrochemical synthesis products and toxicity, especially when it comes to cosmetics. Here are some keys to better understand.
In recent years, there has been an awareness of the composition and impact of what we consume every day, also around the cosmetics industry and the substances used.

Chemical or natural?

Often, this tension arises from a dichotomy between "chemical products" and "natural products," with the latter being presented as better.
However, there is a nuance to be observed because saying "chemical" does not necessarily mean harmful, toxic, or controversial!

"Chemical Products" What exactly is a chemical product in cosmetics?

It is a generic term that does not mean much from a scientific point of view. This expression is often used by the general public to designate a synthetic product or, in a broader sense, something that has undergone a transformation by humans. However, chemical reactions also occur in contact with various natural products that are not processed. For example, by mixing lemon and chalk (which is limestone), you can get CO2!
What is a synthetic product? Chemical synthesis involves creating molecules by assembling already existing products, usually derived from petrochemicals. The creation processes can vary from heating to extracting molecules to alter their biological characteristics, assembling them differently.
However, we have synthetic compounds that do not use petrochemicals, such as silicones, which are created quite differently.

Why use synthetic substances in cosmetics?

Use of synthetic substances to diversify the sensory experience
Synthetic substances are used to obtain a variety of textures, fragrances, colors, and detergents (cleaning action) in cosmetic products. It is also necessary to preserve the products. Indeed, until now, chemists do not have natural preservatives as effective as synthetic preservatives. A natural preservative can prevent the proliferation of bacteria, fungi, and yeasts for only 1 to 2 months at most, especially if the cosmetic product is solid. It is much more complicated for creams and liquids.

Use of synthetic substances in an economic and ecological approach

There is also an economic and ecological imperative because cultivating natural actives is expensive and can lead to waste, such as cultivating entire fields of avocados to extract oil. It will consume a lot of water, while an avocado-based active will consume less energy and be easily reproducible. It is also for this reason that chemists strive to isolate molecules responsible for benefits and reproduce them to achieve maximum efficiency. For example, the flavonoids found in the Ginkgo Biloba tree drain and activate microcirculation, and that's what we consumers find in eye creams! And that, without cultivating entire forests.

Synthetic compounds that cannot be replaced by natural compounds

By unanimity, young people answered "no": certain products cannot be reproduced by natural active ingredients. I quote, for example, emulsification - that's why natural shampoo does not foam. Similarly, the touch brought by silicone does not exist naturally. Otherwise, that's why organic labels Ecocert and Cosmebio currently tolerate 5 synthetic preservatives. A large part of synthetic ingredients are derived from natural ones that have been used. Therefore, you can find equivalent products, but they will necessarily be less potent than the concentrated version and more expensive.

Is it not possible to go 100% natural on a large scale?

Admitting that 100% natural includes natural and naturally derived ingredients, it is possible, but these products will not keep well, and this is a concern when offering them to consumers. Certified natural or organic products can advertise compositions with 97 or 99% natural because the only synthetic compounds are preservatives. On the other hand, for certain products like oils, chemists add vitamin E (tocopherol)! Conclusion: the natural way to make your own product at home does not cause problems, but on an industrial scale, it is more complicated.

"Ingredients of natural origin" and organic ingredients

What does "ingredients of natural origin" mean?
An ingredient of natural origin has undergone a modification and is not in the same state as it came out of the plant or mineral from which it comes. This is the case, for example, for ingredients obtained by fermentation, such as hyaluronic acid, obtained from yeasts to which chemists add chemicals.
The same goes for soap, obtained through a saponification process.
Are certain ingredients not of natural origin?
Yes, some ingredients are not of natural origin: their origin is purely petrochemical. This is the case for vaseline and mineral oils.

Are organic ingredients really better?

Currently available studies show that untreated plants that had to defend themselves against the environment to grow are more loaded with nutrients, so they are considered good. Organic production also respects the environment more, as you can imagine.
When we add to this an organic certification in the final product, it is a guarantee of rigor with controls throughout the production chain.
In the certification process of an organic product, we audit the entire chain of products, i.e., we start from the farmer who grows his olives to the brand that sells the product to the consumer.
With all these players, we will check whether the regulations (in organic farming for olives and oil) and standards (Ecocert or Cosmos since 2017 for the cosmetics part) are well respected.
For example: no environmentally toxic cleaning product is used to clean manufacturing tanks, etc.
These labels ensure the absence of controversial substances.
Note that some certifications work differently; therefore, discover the specifications of those that interest you!

Toxic and controversial substances

What is a controversial substance?
Ah, finally, we address the subject of the famous controversial substances. These ingredients have been the subject of studies that seem to indicate they may pose a risk to consumer health. The problem is that there is no consensus in the scientific community; therefore, some advocate not using them while others call for more studies. Meanwhile, these ingredients are sometimes replaced by others, compared to which science really does not move away because they were recently invented. An example is paraben. Parabens (there are several types) have been disapproved because a study links the presence of certain parabens to breast cancer in rats.
As no one else bought products with parabens, laboratories decided to replace it with MIT (MethylIsoThiazolinone), another very powerful preservative.
And unlucky, MIT is not really good, as evidenced, it is now banned. However,  no one knew among consumers.
This example is one of the reasons that explain why compositions are not systematically changed in case of unproven suspicion.

How to recognize dangerous substances in the composition of a cosmetic?

This question remains complex.
First, there is European regulation as the first filter; this legislation prohibits ingredients when health risks are demonstrated. If products from non-EU countries contain a prohibited ingredient, it will be the first warning sign.
Moreover, the same study conducted by an independent laboratory is often interpreted differently.
The goal of consuming as much natural products as possible is just the first step because not everything is available in a natural state, and natural is not synonymous with safety.
Natural often means "inert to health" for people, and that is not true. On the contrary, there are cancer drugs developed from plant active ingredients, proving, if necessary, that nature is very potent.
All this to say that zero risk does not exist, and it is not due to laboratories' bad intentions, but also because we move very quickly and do not always have perspective on everything.

Cosmetics

Introduction to Cosmetics

Cosmetics are non-medicinal substances and preparations intended to come into contact with different surface parts of the human body (e.g., epidermis, teeth, nails, hair, lips, etc.) with the goal of minimal risk. They do not act in depth and are not essential for the proper functioning of the body. Instead, they are reserved for body care, beauty, and cleanliness, with their sole purpose being to cleanse, beautify, protect, and perfume the body.

It's important not to confuse cosmetics with cosmetic: cosmetics refer to the world of skincare, all techniques, processes, and products used for beautification, while cosmetic is the product itself.

To Use or Not to Use Cosmetics?

Cosmetics come in various forms (gels, creams, emulsions, lotions, etc.) and serve the purpose of well-being without acting as medicines. All cosmetics have a roughly similar composition, consisting of excipients, active substances, and additives.

• Excipient: It allows the active substance to act where it should. Common excipients include water, oils, and alcohol, with natural alternatives like sweet almond, avocado, or shea butter. Silicones, on the other hand, are synthetic excipients.
• Active Substance: Gives the cosmetic "care" properties and is not the most significant substance in terms of product quantity. Examples include zinc, vitamins, clay, and various fruits and vegetables.
• Additive: Enhances and stimulates the cosmetic's action. Cosmetic additives include preservatives, antioxidants, colorants, and adjuvants for coloring, perfuming, foaming, etc.

Cosmetics include:

• Hygiene products for the body, such as toothpaste, shower gel, shampoo, deodorant.
• Skin products, often in cream form, like anti-wrinkle cream, day and night cream, lip balm, face mask, etc.
• Hair products, directly applied to the hair, such as conditioner, hair spray, gel, dyes.
• Makeup products, predominantly used by women, including mascara, eyeliner, gloss, foundation, blush, lipstick, nail polish, self-tanner.
• Perfume, cologne, and toilet water.
• Sunscreen products to protect the skin from UV rays, like sunscreens, post-exposure lotions, and creams.
• Shaving and depilatory products, such as shaving foam, post-shave foam, and depilatory cream.
• Bath and shower preparations, such as bath salts, foaming bath, and bath oil.

Not considered cosmetics:

• Food products, as cosmetics cannot be consumed.
• Medicines or drugs, as cosmetics do not have curative properties.

Cosmetics and Their History:

The earliest use of cosmetics dates back almost as far as humanity. Prehistoric people produced body paints from mineral sources mixed with fatty substances.

In ancient times, civilizations like the Egyptians, Babylonians, and Hebrews used cosmetics for magical, medical, and ritualistic purposes, including body and face paints, oils, perfumes, and ointments.

During the Middle Ages, cosmetics were primarily used to represent the Western feminine ideal of pale skin and rosy cheeks, but these products were only available to the wealthy.

In the 18th century, cosmetics became more accessible to all social classes, and the consumption of perfumes increased during the Renaissance. However, awareness grew about certain cosmetic ingredients like lead, which could harm the skin or even lead to death.

Since the 20th century, with industrialization, cosmetics have become more diverse and affordable, often made with synthetic or petroleum-derived ingredients.

Today, cosmetics are used for personal satisfaction, to feel beautiful and confident. Men are increasingly using cosmetics, and they are used across all generations for various purposes, from baby care to anti-aging creams for the elderly.

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